Celebrating Two Anniversaries
There's been a lot of hoopla around the 100th anniversary of Route 66. I've talked to friends who have made the trip on this historic highway. What many people don't realize is that 2026 is the 100th anniversary of the entire US Federal Highway System so there are numerous routes all across the country that are celebrating their 100th birthdays as designated federal highways. There are a number of premier highways criss-crossing Indiana as we are "The Crossroads of America." Some of the main ones, are US 40 (National Road) the first multi state highway in America. The longest US highway in the country is US 20 from Boston to Seattle and it cuts across northern Indiana. US 50 is a major artery through south central Indiana and it connects Maryland to California. Another premier road is US 41 which takes travelers 2,000+ miles from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan to south Florida. It traces the western side of Indiana from Hammond to Evansville. With all of these routes to choose from, I chose something even more historic for my recent wandering trip - the Lincoln Highway, the first coast to coast highway. Years ago I purchased a book about the historic highway and it inspired me to learn about it and travel it on many occasions.
In the title, I mentioned two anniversaries. September 17 is our wedding anniversary. Beth and I would be celebrating our 43rd our anniversary, and chances are, we would have been wandering somewhere on the special day. This picture is from a trip that we took to northern Indiana, including the Lincoln Highway. While I wander in my professional life, there are two days that are mine, August 17th, a day that Beth died, and September 17th our wedding anniversary. There are times when I just need the solitude of traveling solo. More recently, I have learned to share my joy of wondering with others who want to experience Life Off The Highway.
Joe Pearson is a dear friend and colleague that I have worked with throughout my professional career. Like me, he is curious, and so he was a good partner for this adventure. I have traveled through these highways and visited every dot along the way, but that doesn't mean I've explored the highway and all that it has to offer. When I begin looking at the route, I was quite pleased to discover a turn-by-turn driving guide on the Indiana Lincoln Highway Association's website. We were going to be driving west on the 1913 route. https://indianalincolnhighway.org/wp-content/uploads/2026/08/IN-LH-TBT-1913-East-to-West-Final-632-1-3-AUG-26.pdf. There were three other options. The eastbound route for the 1913 version. A westbound and eastbound routes for the 1928 version. I left home at 7:30 AM and it was partly sunny, but it started raining on my trip to Marion. I typically shun interstate highways, but we had a big day of ahead of us before we even started wandering Lincoln Highway. We met at the Love's truckstop the State Road 18 and I-69.
Listened to a podcast that was interesting in many ways. The author/ podcaster Adam Grant was interviewing his wife who is a author. She published a book called Lump which was about her successful battle with breast cancer. Interesting perspective and they saw the battle differently. It was also fun to hear their banter that only couples can have. I held up pretty well knowing that Beth was not successful with her cancer treatment. Maybe I needed to hear that.
Back on the interstate, we were noticing how much water there was in the ditches and in the fields. Learned that they had received 4 inches of rain overnight in the Bluffton area. We exited the interstate at Markle and traveled US 224 heading east toward the Indiana-Ohio State line. These farmers and communities didn't need any more rain, but we were driving through more today. In fact before we reached Decatur, we drove through water over the highway on two occasions!
We continued on US 224 until we reached State Road 101. We were just 3 miles from the state line and opted to stay on a highway due to high water. We turned north and drove through Monroeville. Up ahead, we turned west on US 30 while Lincoln Highway was parallelling the next road through Townley. We zigzagged back to find Zulu on the old Lincoln Highway. Next up was a small village with the large towering St. Louis Besançon Catholic Church and its adjacent parochial school. After that, we rejoined US 30. A few miles farther west, US 30 joins I-469 and circles around Fort Wayne while we continued on the Lincoln Highway/State Road 930 into New Haven. We followed the historic route into downtown New Haven and stopped for pictures in the light rain.
The former New Haven City Hall from 1915, next-door to fire station #1,
and a private veterans club called the Navy Club.
Across the street on our side was a historic marker for the Wabash and Erie Canal in the Canal Landing Park. "Past this point flowed the Wabash and Erie Canal begun in 1832 and dedicated on July 4, 1843 in Fort Wayne. In its final phase, the canal extended 459 miles from Maumee Bay at Toledo through New Haven, southeastward to Lafayette and thence to the Ohio River at Evansville. It was abandoned in 1874 and the last boat was seen on the canal in 1882." Erected by the Allen County-Fort Wayne Historical Society.
We circled through downtown and later learned that we missed a beautiful Lincoln Highway marker in front of the new city hall that was erected by the Boy Scouts of America. Back on SR930 and followed it through New Haven until it blended into Fort Wayne.
Most County Courthouses are beautiful structures and are typically picture-worthy. However, some struggle to maintain their relevancy in growing cities and some have been torn down or replaced. Fortunately, Allen County community leaders found a way to repurpose the old courthouse as The History Center. It was gloomy we were there so I snagged a picture from the Fort Wayne Philharmonic website.
Our next destination was Cindy’s Diner at 230 West Berry Street. I had first learned about the diner in the Lincoln Highway book. Because it was overcast and raining, the neon sign over the building stood out. We found a parking spot in front and snagged two adjacent stools while most of the twelve seats were occupied. We were greeted by Sheila who was very kind. I was delighted to see that the cover of the menu told the diner's story. I have been to several restaurants that don't share their story and I have to ask. Sometimes the story is better than the food! Today, both were great.
Joe and I were both thinking about burgers off the grill but when we asked, they said, "Order The Garbage" - a special blend of eggs, potatoes, cheese, onions and bits of ham prepared our special way. It was delicious!=
Fortunately, we were seated in the right spot in the diner. We could easily converse with Sheila, but also the woman on the grill. We learned that she is in fact the owner, Angela Rowedda, but everybody calls her Brat. She has been working at the diner for 32 years staffing the grill. In 2016, she purchased the diner and kept the neon signage. The Garbage was delicious. I could tell everything was homemade so I asked about the Country Sausage Gravy and Biscuits. They gave us a small sample of the gravy and it was seasoned well and tasted delicious. Joe and I both agreed that we would return for biscuits and gravy. It was clearly one of the highlights of the trip and we were just getting started.
Cindy's Diner menu, our server Sheila and Brat, the grill master and owner
Stayed on Berry Street and came up on a beautiful old mansion with no markings, and there had to be a story. The next building was under renovation and it's an old auditorium that is now the performing art center for the University of Saint Francis. There seemed to be huge churches at every street corner in the downtown. We circled the block and eventually headed north out of downtown back on Lincoln Highway. Eventually crossed over St. Mary's River and over to Goshen Avenue, which put us back on the official route. Once we crossed over I-69 we were now on US 33 heading northwest.
Former Mizpah Shiners home, back side of the University of St. Francis Auditorium
(In looking through pictures from yesterday, I couldn't figure out the origin of the mansion next to the Saint Francis Auditorium. I called the Allen County/Fort Wayne Visitors Center to see if a staff person could help me identify the structure in question. We eventually determined that it was the former Mizpah Shriners Lodge. But there were no markings on the building or out front. With more research, I learned that the building was the Shriners headquarters until 10 years ago at which point they built a brand new facility near Glenbrook Mall. I called the visitor center representative and shared the information that I had learned.)
US 33 is a good two-lane highway with a fair amount of traffic. The rain was tailing off as we continued for several miles into Whitley County and then drove into Churubusco. If we would have not eaten at Cindy's Diner, my plan was for us to eat at the Magic Wand restaurant which I have driven by numerous times, but never stopped. We crossed State Road 205 in downtown and continued on US 33. Now in Noble County, we arrived in Merriam at a perplexing intersection because we were going northwest and State Rd. 9 is actually heading north but we crossed at a 90° angle? There is an immediate turnout onto the old historic route, just through town.
Stayed on US 33 and drove through Wolf Lake, once known as the Onion Capital of the World. Warehouses along the highway were used to store, especially onions and other farm produce in the 1910s, 20s and 30s. Because of my consulting relationship with the Engage Noble Leadership Academy, I spend a lot of time in this county. Passed the Kimmell House Inn Bed-and-Breakfast and I want to stay there sometime before my contract ends. Drove into the town of Kimmell and captured a picture of the old bank building.
Drove through Stone’s Trace, a “pioneer” settlement, which hosts a large festival on Labor Day weekend. Located at the intersection of State Road 5 and US 33, it is across the road from West Noble High School. A mile or two up the road was a looping portion of the original highway, which is the only brick pavement in Indiana that still remains.
On the south edge of Ligonier, we intersected with US 6, another federal highway, designated as the Grand Army of the Republic Highway. Ligonier is often called the City of Murals for the over 25 murals on the sides of buildings paying tribute to the town's storied past.
Some of the earliest settlers were Hungarian Jews who were skilled wagon makers and immigrated to make wagons for Studebaker before they got into the car business.
We drove Cavin Street/SR5, the commerce artery through the town from end-to-end. We then circled around to see the grain elevator, Star of the West Milling. Stopped for a good picture of it. We called Brian Wise as I knew he had some of the backstory about the mill. I had remembered it as Lyons and Greenleaf Milling. We drove back in through town and we parked for a few minutes while we talked.
Joe and I then drove along Main Street with its significant buildings, broad avenue and beautiful residences. Circled through the downtown and then headed west again on Lincoln Way for 4.5 Miles along a county road until we reconnected with US 33.
Carnegie Library, Ligonier Post Office, Community Foundation of Noble County (neé in former City Hall), former Temple Ahavath Sholom Synagogue with a historic marker in front
Entered Elkhart County and drove through Benton and into Goshen. Joe and I had both been here many times as it is the county seat of Elkhart County. Also, it's home of the Elkhart County Fairgrounds, the largest one in Indiana. The courthouse is beautiful and I have pictures from earlier visits. On the northeast corner is Olympia Candy Kitchen which has been there since 1912. Haven't visited there yet, but will. It's also home of Venturi pizza, a favorite of Beth and I that we discovered while wandering.
Historic Goshen Police Booth on Lincoln Highway, Elkhart County Courthouse, Visitor Markers on Courthouse lawn
Traveled WNW toward Elkhart passing under US20, the longest federal highway in the US connecting Boston to Seattle. Drove through downtown Elkhart and then went to find the Ruthmere Campus with its historic homes and designated historic sites. Included are The Havilah Beardsley House, Ruthmere Mansion, and Gardens.
Ruthmere Mansion, Elkhart
Left the Lincoln Highway route because I needed to get gas at a Costco in Granger and it was crazy busy. We were now in St. Joseph County. Drove through Mishawaka to get back on the Lincoln Highway. Stopped for pictures of the Beiger Mansion on Lincoln Highway, the First United Methodist Church of Mishawaka just one block south, and St. Joseph's Catholic Church and School.
Mishawaka churches (left to right): First United Methodist Church, St. Joseph Catholic Church & School
Entered South Bend and then into the heart of downtown with the Century Center (convention center), Morris Auditorium, more stunning churches, and Covaleski Stadium where the South Bend Cubs play. Stopped for pictures of neighboring churches, St. Patrick's Catholic, the first parish established in 1858 by Irish and German immigrants. The second one, one block away, was Saint Hedwig Catholic Church, was founded by Polish immigrants in 1877. The two parishes were joined in 2001 but still have separate weekly services events.
St. Patrick's Catholic Church and St. Hedwig Catholic Church
Drove back through downtown to find a historic marker that denoted the intersection of Lincoln and Dixie Highways, premier auto trails of the early 20th century.
Lincoln Highway Association, formed 1913, promoted and procured a route from New York to California. Dixie Highway Association, formed 1915, worked similarly for Canada to Florida routes. Highways intersected here and demonstrated the success of private organizations, individuals, and local governments in advancing goals of the Good Roads Movement. In 1880s, popularity of the bicycle increased public demand for improvement of roads, still built and maintained by local governments and residents. Transportation of agricultural products, free federal rural mail delivery, and mass production of automobiles increased
demand for concrete roads; resulted in state and
federal highway programs by the 1920s.
Stopped for pictures of Tippecanoe Place, the historic home of Clement Studebaker, which recently closed after serving as a dining establishment for nearly 50 years. Next door was the Oliver Inn B&B, whose origins are traced to a daughter of the Oliver fortune. A block away, the History Center of South Bend features Copshalom, a house museum also traced to the Oliver Chilled Plow Works fortune, the Workers' Home and Navarre Cabin. On the same property, but on another street, is the state-of-the-art History Museum connected to the 20 year-old Studebaker Museum. I had visited the former museum site years ago.
South Bend: Tippecanoe Place, Oliver Inn B&B, Copshalom
Eventually, we returned to Lincoln Highway which is now the route for Business US 20 toward the South Bend airport. Crossed over US 31 and continued on US 20 through very fertile farmland called Terre Coupee in Saint Joe and LaPorte County counties. Drove through New Carlisle and then into LaPorte County. US20 turns west toward Rolling Prairie and Lake Michigan while Lincoln Highway continued on SR 2 to LaPorte. We could spot the bell tower on the LaPorte County Courthouse well before we reached the downtown. We were tiring of driving so we really didn't give the city it's due, but I have been here many times. In fact years ago, Beth and I stopped at an antique store and I purchased a 1917 driving guide and county atlas that is part of my collection. I remember the date because it was the year my mother was born.
We exited Lincoln Highway as this was the end of our official wandering. We turned SSE on US 35 heading toward Kokomo. We had a lot of driving yet to do.
In Winamac, we took a quick side trip to the town park. It is situated inside a loop of Tippecanoe River. It's a great community amenity. Taking a break from driving, we walked on the suspension bridge over the river and back. I had been here once before on February 14, 2025.
Suspension Bridge in Winamac Park
Drove through several villages, towns, and around Logansport before turning to east on State Road 18. We arrived at 8pm in Converse for dinner at Jefferson Street Barbecue. They were closing in two minutes! We had maxed out our travel time and we ended up eating at Culver's in Marion. We still took time to eat in the dining room. After we finished, we drove back to Love’s truckstop. Joe picked up his car and I headed home on I-69. Listen to a podcast and music on my trip home. Arrived 10:20pm, a big day.
A few days after our trip, I asked Joe what stood out for him from our excursion. He especially enjoyed finding the historic marker in downtown South Bend at the crossroads between Lincoln Highway and Dixie Highway and learning more about the historic roads. While the roads remain in some form, he was intrigued at the Wabash and Erie Canal Park relegated to history books, old maps or historic markers like the one in Canal Landing in Fort Wayne. (You can visit the Wabash and Erie Canal Park in Delphi to see more.) Joe and I both enjoyed seeing the brick pavement on the original road near Ligonier. Last, but not least, everything about Cindy's diner was a treat. And, we will be back for biscuits and gravy!
We both enjoyed our time together, exploring history, reminiscing about collaborative initiatives, and making new memories. Joe knows I take a lot of pictures, but it's hard to take good pictures of yourself. So he took several pictures of me reading markers, taking pictures, and even one outside the diner.
County roads, state and federal highways, and scenic byways all have context and stories to share. Interstate highways just have exit ramps and gas stations. Maybe that's why I'm drawn to the former list. You can travel in any direction, see the site, drive through history, dine at a local eatery, and have time for a conversation. There are many more places to visit but I would encourage a traveler to visit Lincoln Highway. It's a good trip for the soul, and an anniversary as well!
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